Jean Maurice Niyigena, a young designer from Kigali, is using upcycled denim, protest prints, and painterly silhouettes to pose a difficult question: What does it mean to wear memory? His label, Bone Koboyi, is part of a small but growing movement in African fashion—one less preoccupied with haute couture than with heritage, ethics, and local production. While Africa’s textile industry employs over 2 million people and could generate $15.5 billion by 2025 (AfDB), much of the sector remains undercut by second-hand imports and broken supply chains. Niyigena’s answer is defiantly local: repurpose what exists, reject excess, and tell African stories without Western filters.
In this interview, he breaks down what it means to design from Kigali, the challenges of sourcing ethically in a broken supply chain, and why his latest collection, Exodus, is less about trends and more about truth.
Meet Jean Maurice Niyigena, the Voice of Slow Fashion in Kigali
FAB: What inspired your love and passion for fashion?
Maurice Niyigena: My love for fashion comes from a deep appreciation for storytelling through garments. I’ve always seen clothing as more than just fabric—it’s a way to express identity, culture, and movement. My journey started with a desire to break away from convention while staying rooted in heritage. Over time, I’ve evolved as a designer, experimenting with upcycling, painting on fabrics, and creating pieces that carry a message. It’s been a journey of learning, challenges, and growth, but every step has been driven by my vision of shaping the world through design.
FAB: What’s the inspiration behind your designs, and what is your approach to sustainability?
Maurice Niyigena: My designs are inspired by storytelling—connecting the past with the present while envisioning a hopeful future. I focus on using recycled or repurposed materials, incorporating hand-painting techniques, and collaborating with artisans to create timeless, meaningful pieces. Sustainability is embedded in every stage of my creative process, from concept to execution.
FAB: Tell us about the current state of Rwanda’s fashion industry.
Maurice Niyigena: Rwanda’s fashion industry has experienced significant growth in sustainable practices, driven by initiatives like the “Made in Rwanda” policy, which emphasizes local production and reduces reliance on imported secondhand clothing. This policy has boosted local talent and innovation, leading to the emergence of brands such as Haute Baso, which combines traditional methods with modern design to create timeless pieces.
FAB: What challenges are designers aligned with sustainable fashion facing in Rwanda?
Maurice Niyigena: Despite these advancements, Rwandan fashion designers face several challenges. Accessing high-quality, locally sourced raw materials remains difficult, often leading designers to use whatever materials are available, which can compromise the quality and consistency of their products. Additionally, the lack of industry standards has led to issues like design duplication and inconsistent pricing, with some designers facing criticism over the perceived cost and quality of their garments. Establishing effective e-commerce and shipping operations also presents challenges, limiting designers’ ability to reach broader markets.
Furthermore, there is a need to build consumer trust in local designers, as some Africans tend to favour international brands over local ones. Addressing these challenges is crucial for the continued growth and sustainability of Rwanda’s fashion industry. Efforts are being made to enhance local manufacturing capacities, establish industry standards, and promote the value of locally made products to foster a more robust and sustainable fashion sector. Additionally, balancing creativity with environmental responsibility requires constant innovation and commitment.
FAB: What attracted you to be part of Season 7 of NFW?
Maurice Niyigena: Season 7 of NFW represented a powerful platform to amplify meaningful narratives through fashion. I was inspired by its commitment to sustainability and the opportunity to connect with other creatives who share a vision of transforming the industry. Participating in this season aligns perfectly with my ethos of using art and design to shape a better future.
The theme resonated deeply with my movement/collection, Exodus (Kuva in Kinyarwanda), which explores the movement of creative ideas and the breaking of conventions. Sustainability, both as a theme and practice, is integral to my designs, as I believe in creating garments that tell stories while honouring the environment and the communities that inspire them.
FAB: Why is it important for the fashion industry to go sustainable in your view?
Maurice Niyigena: The fashion industry wields immense cultural and economic influence, and it must evolve to reflect responsibility towards people and the planet. Sustainability ensures the industry addresses climate change, reduces waste, and supports fair labour practices. It’s about creating a future where beauty and ethics coexist, benefiting all stakeholders.
What’s Next for Bone Koboyi
FAB: What do you observe to be the reason why most fashion events in Africa are becoming sustainable, and what is the impact of this on the industry?
Maurice Niyigena: Africa has always had a deep connection to craftsmanship, resourcefulness, and respect for nature. Fashion events in Africa are now embracing sustainability to celebrate this heritage while addressing global challenges. This shift not only highlights Africa’s role in redefining modern fashion but also inspires innovation, fosters global respect, and ensures the industry’s longevity.
FAB: What challenges have you personally faced as a designer?
Maurice Niyigena: One of the biggest challenges has been navigating the balance between creativity and sustainability. I aim to create unique, upcycled pieces that don’t conform to fast fashion, but that requires sourcing materials, refining techniques, and educating the market on the value of slow, intentional fashion. Another challenge is building a strong community around my brand, ensuring that people connect not just with the clothes but with the movement behind them.
FAB: What plans do you have in future for your designs?
Maurice Niyigena: I see my brand, BONE, growing into a movement that extends beyond fashion. I want to continue pushing the boundaries of upcycling and storytelling through design while collaborating with like-minded creatives. Community is a big part of my vision, so I plan to create more projects that bring people together through art and fashion. Ultimately, my goal is to make BONE not just a brand but a cultural force that inspires and challenges perspectives.
Interview By: Harriet James
